SUPPLIES
Potty Pads To begin I recommend you use outside with covered areas protected from rain. Potty pads will result in more mopping in the house. Maybe because the pad is dirty and they want a fresh spot, or they are confused and don't understand the goal, or they have bad aim. Okay, now on with potty pads...Go big, penny likes to spin in circles to go potty and makes herself dizzy and misses the small pads, bless their hearts you know. I like 3ft ones, pets world has 300 for $0.25 each but its a box of 300. They are thin but like I said they like a fresh one anyway. Lay out multiples in every room they are permitted in especially in the beginning during rain or wind ... for the boys tape or magnet but don't let them eat a magnet the pad or two to the wall 8" inches high (L shaped) for marking. Belly bands also keep boys from peeing in the house, they can't be left on all day all week or they will get irritated skin like diaper rash. If you don't have covered outdoor areas protected from weather you can try no pads and insist on outside but I have a few that just say no to bad weather and I am tired of mopping... besides wet hair is a chore for you because wet hair unbrushed is a knot in the making. We will be getting outdoor roofing soon for this reason.
Tear free shampoo for face Happy Eyes ......... these bottles are concentrates and are to be mixed in a water squeeze bottle for use. If you are insistent on just using something from the grocery to be cheap I don't recommend it but I heard Jergen's is the least stingy when it gets in the eyes for people but you really should not use people products as they can irritate the dog's skin and eyes.
Chris Christensen Ice on Ice detangling shampoo & conditioner and an ice pin brush and butter comb for the shih tzu.
Exercise Pen of 28 inches tall or higher for the shih tzu because they can jump, metal is best, they may chew through fabric depending on the dogs temperament, anxiety, or excitement. Give good treats in this area for good / positive association. Go 5 ft for the dalmatians and keep it small enough as to not get a running start to jump the fence. I admit that Freckles my girl is obedient and may not be aware that jumping a 3 ft is possible for her and I am not going to tell her. If you got a boy, which are bigger, then an outside fence should be 6 ft minimum just in case.
Adjustable harness as they grow fast and have a large chest that makes most cute options not fit great... I like the ones with the chest connector piece so it butterflies around arms as opposed to just looping neck and chest. The instructions are to loosen the ropes and stick the arms through the butterflied loops and the head through the top hole (picture an upside-down heart for the arm holes and a circle inside the heart bottom for the head) . This is a one size fits all option and a no pull no escape. Of course, you can get the regular kind but make sure it is adjustable. Do know that if they are leash pullers harnesses only encourage this behavior. Change direction every time they pull, if they are strong a sideways pull to get the front feet off balance is your goal to reduce their leverage. Start early on the dalmatians or you will need a prong collar if you aren't in great physical strength or recovering from surgery. A slip lead can work fine if you start when they are less than 15 lbs. but if you put it off until that beefy boy gets to be 50+ lbs and you have a bad knee or back then you will have your work cut out for you.
Chews: Yak cheese hard chew (medium churro style will be gone in a day) and water buffalo horns are favorites. They prefer natural over the plastic creations and these are not swallowed and therefore not vomited later... the big dalmatians will swallow yak cheese if small enough and vomiting will follow. Kneecaps are hard enough to prevent swallowing yet small enough for the shih tzu to enjoy. Crunchy things clean teeth as they scrape the yuck off. Fill the horns with filling like peanut butter or cream cheese or fill with kibble in yogurt and freeze for a crate treat. You can also do this frozen crate meal with metal muffin tins as they will eat silicone and plastics.
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TRAINING
Never overdo training. 5 minutes is enough for a session if you want them to maintain interest and always ending on a good note. You can do 2 or 3 sessions per day if you insist, 30 minutes is pushing your luck, and an hour is begging to end on a bad note. What is practiced will be repeated. Reward well and often in the beginning, real meat or cheese has the most value and the freeze dried meat products are good also, not a dog biscuit. Carrots, cucumbers, melon, etc. are also good value also. NO GRAPES or RAISINS or CAFFINE or CHOCOLATE or XYLITOL.
Potty Training This applies to the shih tzu, if you do 1/3 of this with the dalmatian you will be fine. Shih tzu were put on this earth to teach us how to be disciplined and dedicated to a schedule of pottying your dog before you get to pee or get coffee. They require you to watch and they may not come in until they have done the doo or the pee. They will tell you they want to come in and then they will do their business inside within the minute. They are easily distracted, maybe they forgot, who can say, but the only one to blame is yourself for not watching and waiting. They wake and go outside immediately. They may play or eat and should go out after 30 minutes, you may then let them comeback in and play for another 30 minutes or put them in a crate or pen if you need to do things that require you not stare at them every move they make. If you see them run back and forth in a zig zag or pounce and stand on the fence with their front paws or spin in circles they are about to do their business. Don't yell, just run, pick up dog and take them outside and wait and watch. Don't let them convince you that it was a false alarm, they just forgot for a second up to 15 minutes, sit out there with them and enjoy the scenery. Have patience and limit distractions so they can remember. Now, Aslan prefers to go on a short walk to do the doo as he doesn't want to mess his home turf. Back to the crate scenario... they may nap for an hour or more, maybe they eat in the crate for good association. The younger they are the sooner they need to go outside after a meal if you are doing the kind of crate training where they aren't allowed to poo in the cage (show dogs have special cages with a grated floor and a larger square footage). They come in, play for 30 and go back outside to potty then go to play or cuddle again or maybe back in the crate. Never do you leave them to roam your huge house without being watched like a hawk for the first year. The second you have an accident then you know you allowed too much square footage too soon. Perhaps they were so good the past week and you think to yourself that you have succeeded, and you can relax now. Nope, when the accident happens just make their free space smaller. Remain diligent and disciplined on a schedule. Personal development coach should go on their resume. I could have been a better parent if I had this under my belt before having kids. Or an alternate approach is to sit outside in a lawn chair under a roof all waking hours for the first year in a mild weathered climate. If you go inside, then they are leashed / tethered to you or in a crate or small 4x4 or 4x6 pen if you aren't doing pads or litter. Puppies NEED downtime and a break from you. Don't create a nervous clingy mess by never teaching separation and self-soothing. What is practiced will be repeated in this instance as well and if there is no association formed with potty inside then you are good to go. Also, you must use enzyme cleaner to remove potty accident smells. You can try a mixture recommended by Dr. Marty Greer DVM: 1 small bottle peroxide with 1 small box baking soda and 2 tablespoons DAWN dish soap, mix / use / avoid eyes. Don't store because it will blow up. This mixture is the solution to skunk smell also - not tomato juice.
Grooming Appointment: The dalmatians do need to practice nail grinding early and regular bathes will keep the shedding hair down. Also brushing with a curry mitt or to get real fancy do it like a horse because their hair is similar and curry in an oval pattern to remove dead hair, medium firm / dandy brush with a short stroked upward flick to remove dust, then long stroke soft natural bristle brush finish for shine, the stones are nice too. For the shih tzu you must schedule a grooming appointment now so your groomer can start introduction to a routine, trim nails, paws, eyes, and bum. Make it a short happy appointment the first few times. Their hair grows quick, don't wait. Make it every 3 weeks instead of 6 weeks so your groomer can get what needs to be done accomplished otherwise you will have to pay for extra time and a bad experience. To help train, hold paws and face still for a few seconds only releasing the split second they are still and not flailing to get away. Reward submission and softness within half a second. Brushing from 3 months to 1 year is of utmost importance as they matt up extra when they are getting a new coat in if you don't keep up brushing in pits and groins and behind ears and under chin, etc. You are doing this in 1-minute intervals as to not make it a torture session, maybe reward with a treat .... This is not just a brush down the back. Now that you have been trained in the first year you should just keep that up.
Puppy Class: Find a puppy class and go play, be okay with being an under achiever as these concepts are to teach you more than the dog in the first year or two. Don't let the pressure of being in class make you push your dog past their limit, recognize their stress before the bad association or melt down and quietly step away and probably be done for the day. Instructors are sometimes volunteers from clubs and may not be practiced enough to be attuned to your needs in every instance when in a group class. Be your own advocate without shame of disrupting the class or offending the instructor, this is common practice in the dog world. There is no shame in taking a bow for the day before you lose your cool or ruin months of progress. Keep it positive for the dog to keep them motivated to play the game with you.
Load a recall immediately and often: Use your preferred call command and reward with a food treat. Again and again. If you do nothing in your first year but this then you are still on a good trajectory.
Leash Walking: Don't drag but reward the moment they move forward of their own choice. We are not doing "heeling" work in the first year unless you are really doing this training thing for sport. The second they get to pulling you around change direction in a 90* turn or 180* about face direction. Don't fuss at them, just stay interesting by being unpredictable. A session only needs to last 5 minutes once a day for a week to make progress. Most important is not to practice being dragged because what you practice will be repeated. So, if you walk more obviously you can't allow them to be a bull, but you will have this under control even sooner.
Lie Down: The most important safety command you will ever teach your dog is a lie down. Even more useful than a recall because what if they crossed a busy road and it is dangerous to move. I don't expect this command to be solid at a distance until your pup is an adult. ... Off is better for no jumping or get off couch and down is lie down but sometimes getting other people to comply or remember is a battle so you may choose a different command that can be clearly heard from across the yard for your down. The shih tzu may never accel at this but it is a good goal none the less.
Sometimes others taint your command words so you must pick unique commands and not tell others who don't understand not to wear out the command to extinction. The person who says their name repeatedly and gives no treat are making your command useless.
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More detailed opinions and thoughts that may evolve over time
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Recommendations for living together in harmony:
Any of my advice is only relevant if you are unhappy with your current results. If life with your new pup is going great then you got this and you don't need my input. But if you need help I recommend you start with these concepts and feel free to ask for help any time at any age.
*I observe the modified K.I.S.S. principle = Keep It Simple Silly. Simple clear expectations and silly joyful demeanor in reward and in correction as anger only drives them to hide the unwanted behavior behind the couch or under the bed. While I believe you should always keep your temper in check I don't believe that only treats and no force is always the right answer for all dogs at all times.
*If I really want a behavior then I reward with unseasoned plain chicken, steak, hamburger, pork chop, cheese, etc. To get them to choose to go in the crate or the car or to come when called I get guaranteed results with plain meat or cheese reward ideally in 1.6 seconds post success. Reward the try and do not wait for perfection at first.
*Exercise pens and baby gates are needed for the first year minimum for successful potty training and damage control. Just as it isn't kindness to leave a toddler in a huge crowded mall all alone it is not kindness to give young pups 1000sqft or more of space to make mistakes in, small safe spaces are what you do for toddlers and it is what you should do for your dog in a new environment for at least a year if not three. This prevents chewed up toilet paper, electrical cords, and wooden furniture. Take them out to potty often instead of expecting them to think ahead and make responsible decisions and put them down for naps in their cave / crate often, especially when you leave or sleep. Too much excitement ends with a puddle on the floor, playtime requires extra potty visits. They may not bark at you or scratch the door to go potty, they may gaze at you and perhaps lick your nose to communicate need. If they start walking in circles or pacing back and forth you better hurry because they are looking for a spot to relieve themselves. If on leash they need a longer line as their bowels seem to need the pacing on the fence to do the doo and a 4ft leash won't cut. Sometimes they even jump on the fence almost using the fence to hold their balance while squatting.
*When the dog is causing trouble like chewing the couch it means the dog needs more activity and engagement like a walk or fetch and they shouldn't be left alone with the couch.
*When the dog yawns, licks lips, or turns away when you are actively working with them these are the first signs of stress, end on a positive note quickly before it goes sideways with undesired behavior, stop pushing to avoid negative association with the activity or ultimately getting bit. Teach children to respect these communication attempts as a warning that should be heeded. Obviously these are shih tzus and have been bred to be submissive and are highly unlikely to actually cause any problems but it is still nice for people to understand their body language saying "no please".
*Pottying or Airing the dog: I have done everything in my setup to prevent them from associating carpet as a place to pee. The shih tzus will go on an elevated grate with pee pads underneath like crates provide for an indoor potty area. A hole size of 1" x 1" is the largest opening that should be used and smaller opening doesn't allow poo to fall through. They will tear up and eat pee pads that are loose on the floor so the wire crate with a floor grate insert is fantastic and it is what they will most likely have if they go to the vet or groomers. I sometimes remove the elevated grate from the cage placing it on top of pee pads and use it as an indoor potty area designation inside a play pen as they may not want to "go" inside the smaller enclosed crate by choice. Grated flooring means its okay to "go" but they still prefer and area away from bed and food and water to go by choice as the ammonia smell burns their nose and eyes. Crate training still works this way and its less mess for you when accidents do happen. Feeding means poo is coming so if you feed just before bed don't be mad if they cant hold it for 8 hours in the crate, next time pull food away at least three hours before extended crate time. If they eat stuff they shouldn't, drink creek water (5dy fenbendazole for Giardia) , or have worms then diarrhea and vomit can be an issue. Obviously grass is great and associating outside with potty is more clear to the learning pup to prevent indoor accidents but that isn't always a viable solution for every situation and for my purpose I can't risk potential worms and soil born diseases when they are so young. Other options are concrete or pine pellet bedding or decking if you don't have grass as an option or live near a densely populated dog patch of grass that will have extra cooties in the dirt, especially before the vaccines have set in properly.
*Your dog is still a puppy even at one year old, it's less about specific commands and more about shaping and guiding desired behavior. Set the tone for the relationship. What is practiced will be repeated. Set your dog up for success by setting the environmental inputs that practically guarantee that only one choice is obvious and easy. Some training concepts I keep in mind that kind of rhyme and therefore easily recalled are: What you release (or reward) is what you teach / Slow is smooth and smooth is fast / We don't rise to the level of our expectation, we fall to the level of our training. For example, in what you release/allow/reward is what you teach if you don't want them to chase cars never allow them to catch the tire thus rewarding the many hours of effort barking and chasing the cars or if you don't want them to jump on people never give attention to the behavior by only picking them up the second all paws touch the ground or if you don't want them to pull on the leash then don't allow them to drag you to a thing/person/reward by changing direction when they pull often. If you don't want them to beg at the table don't feed from the table. Slow is smooth reminds us that not rushing the basic small steps will ultimately result in a better outcome and to keep calm. Your puppy doesn't need to be an overachiever in the first six months, in fact age will work out some of the problems on their own. Many pro trainers don't even walk the dog in the neighborhood (uncontrolled environment with uncontrolled inputs) until after the first year or so insuring a solid training relationship is established first. In fact, it's your job to make sure no bad experiences happen in the first year, socialization means being calm around activity and others and not necessarily playing with everyone all the time. I have made my fair share of mistakes but this is the goal. We fall to the level of our training applies to recall the most for me meaning you can't expect your pup to come to your call if you haven't put the reps in of call and reward with high value treats.
*No allowing biting play on people. Always redirect to a toy preferably with some length / distance between your hand and the dogs teeth. This is necessary to prevent injury to children, the elderly and thin skinned, company, and to prevent being sued and/or having to put the dog down per court order.
*Don't ruin your recall or other commands by repeating the same word or name over and over again, less talking and more guiding gently with kind patience as they are like toddlers in comprehension / understanding even in old age.
*Reward your recall, if it is their name then don't wear it out. I use a rhythmic "cha-cha-cha" clapping or a special sound that carries well because I can't whistle and make it a puppy party with serious joyful excitement and food rewards like plain steak. Keep it joyful and fun not angry and scolding even if they were disobedient. YOU will adjust the environment for better success next time by thinking ahead for possible variations of input in the environment.
*Baxter and Bella training has the right idea "The Puppy Training Podcast" on Spotify with Amy Jensen is Baxter and Bella training. Of course I enjoy many more trainers input but she is clear and concise for the new owner and offers the concepts of observation, timing and shaping behavior in 10-20 mins per session. You don't have to buy any of her stuff, it's free to listen.
*Jane Lindquist does Puppy Culture podcast and Madcap University might also be an option.
*Susan Garrett from DogsThat.com has podcasts and many other resources also and does a lot of agility.
*For the more advanced training concepts from the working dog world I listen to Denise Fenzi's food for thought podcast on spotify, or just search Michael Ellis sometimes associated with Leerburg but separate in podcasts or youtube.
*Observation and timing is everything
* you should deworm and deflea monthly with medication recommended by your vet.
*All breeds and dogs within the breed have there differences in temperament and training style as well as toy and activity preferences.
*If you don't spay or neuter them they will mark with urine inside your home, even some females mark. I don't have permanent carpeting in my home.
GROOMING Shih tzus: Chris Christensen brand "ICE ON ICE" shampoo for body and Happy Eyes tearless shampoo around eyes, conditioner, and ICE detangler spray, and drop coat spray along with the Ice Slip 20mm detangling brush, T-rake or butter comb and perhaps the Karben 17mm or Big G slicker 27mm in the small size (the mark 12mm is too short on tines). The pins are smooth and don't scratch the way cheaper stuff will and it's important for grooming not to be torture if you want a willing participant.
*For all shampoo I dilute a quarter size drop into a 10oz squirt bottle and shake until frothy then apply and let suds sit for at least one minute if not three. I may use multiple bottle mixes for one washing depending on hair length.
*Eyes must be flushed with eye wash regularly as hair fuzz gets in there. Eyes must be trimmed short unless you commit to daily top knot pony tails. Some have eyes that water and weep more than others due to allergies or hair poking and this makes more crusties and red staining. After a week or two the face may smell yeasty as it is constantly wet and the gunky crust needs to be washed away with a tearless shampoo. Tearless or not try not to put directly into eyes.
*Ear hair must be pulled from inside the canal with an ear powder for grip.
*Bums must be kept shaved down monthly to keep poo from sticking with diarrhea and potentially causing impaction or rectal prolapse as a worst case scenario.
*The underbelly and inner legs are kept shaved down even when I leave the top hair long.
*The feet pads must be shaved and toe nails and dew claws must be trimmed monthly. Good vision with great lighting is the only way to do toes lest you cut too close to the quick. I like to get a helper to hold the pup up in the sunlight so I can see paws and the quick shining through the toenail. I wear my glasses. If anything less is more in this situation, do not get too close and watch your angle, make sure you don't pinch hair or toe pad in the snip. A wet paw or a paw with hair held back by a tight weave fishnet stocking or lime bag can be helpful if you are having trouble seeing the toes clearly. Be careful with rotary sanders as the hair will wrap and rip out.
*If you want to keep long hair you must brush and wash and use product every day to at least once a week. Product does make it easier and can allow less maintenance days. Also age seems to make it easier, honestly my four year old Aslan only needs once a week if that and my two year old Goldie as well. The AKC's have more fluffy soft undercoat and require more but a product called precious drop is keratin that thickens the shaft making it less likely to wrap up around itself used along with Ice on Ice detangler. Also blow drying with COOL air or at least brushing out after dry will help reduce knots. When I come across matted knots that are too far gone I trim out individually with thinning / chunking shears if my goal is long hair. The fluffy fine hair undercoat is what gets so knotted especially under ear lobes and pits and thighs.
*its easier to let your groomer trim them down to 1/2 inch but they will need a coat when the temperature is below 70*F with wind chill and shade considered.
FOOD, VET AND WELLNESS:
*Foods that we eat may cause tummy upset in your pup, for all those who insist you are over reacting 'cause ol' fido used to eat it/ that's the way my daddy did it ... they are in charge of vomit clean up, vomit laundry, and diarrhea clean up for a week. Ol' fido roamed the neighborhood and vomited out of sight and poo'd in the woods and no one was the wiser. I miss those old times too but that isn't our reality now. Also Ol' fido had half the life span of your pup today.
*I don't believe in most supplements due to unregulated and often deceitful ingredient list. However I do like vet recommended purina pro plan fortiflora probiotic powder for upset tummy...They love Plain organic canned pumpkin that also helps diarrhea @ 1 TBSP per meal +- . The pumpkin is my preferred tummy go to.
* I feed balanced high quality tested kibble for optimal health, deworm, deflea and detick monthly with meds recommended by mainstream vets. I use and trust older / well tested medications... if it's been in use for more than 10 years and is still considered safe then I am on board. If long-term use has proven the formerly used protocol to be harmful then I discontinue said medication. I use pregnancy tested safe meds like plain heartgard, fenbendazole, pyrantel pamoate, fipronil with no plus extra add on meds. Other med choices are probably safe for you, those listed above are safe for pregnancy as proven by long term reproducible testing. Now, my boy Aslan is really picky food wise and won't eat the edible meds by choice. Covering it in peanut butter is not enough, squeeze liver or cheese isn't his thing, no dog stuff will due. I make it into tiny pieces and mix into super yummy mush that can't be separated like pure chicken baby food as a medicine mixer which is just pureed chicken and water with no salt or additives. The chicken puree never fails. You can also keep wet canned food for this special occasion, the puppy food is richer/yummier so may work better than adult variety for your pickiest dogs. If you must wet cat food is also a trick used as it is also super rich.
*Purina Pro Plan All Life Stages. If you have a poo eating problem ( applies to dog poo, rabbit or horse is too irresistible and if you have a cat get a litter box with top entry) then upgrade your feed or vitamin - I noticed a difference moving to purina pro from Diamond Naturals.
*Yak Cheese, hard not medium, for teething and maintenance chewing at around $10 per oz / single small chew that will last for months. The churro types are cheaper but softer and will be eaten in a day or two.
*Buffalo horn also lasts and is a favorite that can't be swallowed.
*Cheap training treats : low value high frequency: Kix cereal or plain cheerio's both only have 4g sugar per serving.
High value low frequency and Recall: string cheese in teeny tiny strings or fat shred cheese, any unseasoned pure meat in teeny tiny pieces like chicken, pork chop, hamburger or steak .... I'm not saying I never use leftovers with some seasoning I just understand that it's not ideal, especially with garlic or onion or tomato based stuff that often causes vomiting. There are many off limits items but usually large quantities are the deadly problem, save xylitol which is super poisonous in small quantities like a pack of gum.
*Trust your vet, I believe in real experts and the time they put into learning under the rigor of a group of their peers. Having said that, by all means try out different ones, get second opinions, find one that speaks your language. Ultimately it will be fine, I do think some practices or concepts are a little out there at times but even so it is unlikely to be the demise of your furbaby.
*raw introduces worms and salmonella to babies so it is unsafe for my situation. However there are safe ways to do it but there are rules that you must follow and you must deworm regularly. Raw must be frozen at a set degree for at least one month to kill worms and viruses and certain meats are off limits like cow placenta, seal, or wild game. Certain bones cooked or raw are dangerous for some dogs, believe it or not chicken necks cause deaths by choking due to gulping instead of chewing. Obviously some dogs will do fine, some dogs are delicate and meticulous and would never gulp with out chewing but do you want to be safe or sorry.
* herbals don't keep ticks off around here and I have an aversion to scented stuff if I can help it, it's overwhelming but that's a me thing however dogs sense of smell is greater than ours and I assume what overwhelms me might overwhelm them too.
